Textiles of Africa
Heritage/Mali/Kaasa (Fulani Wool Blanket)
Mali — Weaving

Kaasa (Fulani Wool Blanket)

Kaasa / Khasa (Fulfulde) · Maabo (weaver) (Fulfulde)

Origin
The kaasa (also khasa) is a woven wool blanket of the Fulani, produced along the Niger River near Mopti in Mali and into south-west Niger. Museum records date surviving examples from the late 19th to the late 20th century; no founding date for the tradition is documented. The weaving was done by a hereditary artisan group of male Fulani weavers, the Maabuube, while women of all classes spun and dyed the yarn.
Primary material
wool, with cotton in the decorative weft
Technique family
Weaving
Typical process time
Not documented in the sources consulted
Peoples
Fulani (Peul), Maabuube weavers
Preservation status
Actively practiced today
Availability
Limited availability
Who makes it
Men of the Maabuube artisan group weave the six narrow strips; women of all classes spin and dye the yarn, and women assemble the finished cloth and add edge and seam embellishment.

Traditionally worn for

Everyday wearCeremonies

Origins & history

The kaasa belongs to the Fulani (Peul) pastoral economy of the Niger River region around Mopti. Fulani sheep herding was historically centred there, and in nearby villages and towns a settled or semi-settled artisan class of male Fulani weavers, the Maabuube, wove the blankets. Museum collections date their examples from the late 1800s to the 1980s, and the blankets were traded widely across the Sahel, prized by diverse ethnic groups, as well as by colonial officials, ethnographers and travellers. No source we found gives a firm date for the beginning of the tradition.

How It Is Made

  • Fibre. Wool is the main fibre, and lamb's wool was prized for its softness; washing also softens the finished blanket. Cotton appears sparingly in the decorative supplementary weft. Cotton warps were reportedly developed only in the second half of the 20th century.
  • Spinning and dyeing. Women of all classes spun and dyed yarn. The most skilled spinners and dyers were sought out for the most luxurious blankets. A customer could buy yarn at market and commission a weaver, or a wealthy woman could supply her own dyed yarn and pay the weaver.
  • Weaving. A kaasa is made of six narrow strips woven in weft-faced plain weave. In one documented example each strip is about 23 cm wide and the finished blanket measures about 223 by 137 cm.
  • Assembly. Women sew the strips together and add embellishments along the edges and the centre seam.

Reading the Cloth

In the museum example described above, undyed white wool forms the ground; nine horizontal bands cross the blanket; black, red and yellow supplementary wefts form geometric motifs in the five middle bands; rust-red bands sit next to black-and-white terminal bands; and undyed white cotton "knots" highlight the black wool. Some collection records link designs to the Niger-Delta patterns called Djallobé or Diafarabé, and note similarities with Berber weaving. We could not find a reliable dictionary of motif meanings, so we do not offer one.

Use

Kaasa blankets are warm bedding against cold desert nights, are used by herders on the move, and protect against mosquitoes. They are a cloth of regional trade rather than of a single ceremony, though luxurious commissions reflect class distinctions among the Fulani.

Buying Notes

  • Ask whether the blanket is woven in six strips and whether the weft is wool; machine-made "kaasa-style" blankets exist.
  • Ask who spun and dyed the yarn, and whether it is hand-spun.
  • Old blankets belong to collectors and museums; a listing should say plainly whether a piece is old or newly woven.

Sources

  • Cooper Hewitt, kaasa blanket record (production roles, strip structure, bands, dating; cites Pascal James Imperato, "Wool Blankets of the Peul of Mali", African Arts, 1973, and Bernhard Gardi, Textiles du Mali, 2003).
  • The Metropolitan Museum of Art, room divider (kaasa) (Gimbala area; six strips; link to Berber patterns).
  • British Museum, khasa record E Af1990,12.1 (Fulfulde terms; Niger-Delta patterns).

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