Textiles of Africa
Heritage/Kenya/Kikoy
Kenya — Weaving

Kikoy

Kikoy / Kikoi (Swahili) · Banadir (Somali coast trade name)

Origin
The kikoy (kikoi) is a rectangle of woven cotton wrapped around the waist, associated with the Swahili coast. It is said to have come to Kenya from Somalia, where the city of Barawa was known for its weaving; a type called banadir takes its name from Somalia's Banadir coast. Other accounts point to Oman and the wider Arab world. Origins are disputed.
Primary material
cotton
Technique family
Weaving
Typical process time
Not documented in the sources consulted
Peoples
Swahili, Maasai
Preservation status
Actively practiced today
Availability
Widely available
Who makes it
Worn by men on the coast as a wrap; now worn more widely, including by the Maasai and by men in Tanzania and Zanzibar.

Traditionally worn for

Everyday wear

What It Is

A kikoy is a single rectangle of cotton cloth wrapped at the waist and rolled over once or twice, mostly regarded as a sarong. It also serves as a baby sling, a towel or a head wrap. Its patterns are woven into the cloth, not dyed or printed onto it, which separates it from the printed kanga (see our kanga guide).

Where It Comes From

The origin is contested, and the sources are mostly commercial or general reference pages, so none is conclusive. A widely repeated account says the kikoy reached Kenya from Somalia, with the city of Barawa known for weaving it and a type called banadir named after the Banadir coast. A second account points to Oman and maritime trade with the Arab world, with the cloth worn by Arab merchants as a sarong before Swahili communities adopted it. A third thread is documentary: a Portuguese-era report from the 1630s describes cotton cloth as a major part of Mombasa's trade with neighbouring Mijikenda communities, which shows cloth was central to the coast's economy but does not mention the kikoy by name. A museum record of a kikoy bought in Lamu in 1983 describes it as handwoven and said to come from Somalia.

Use and Spread

The kikoy is associated with the Swahili people of the coast, where men wore it mainly as a wrap. It is now worn more widely, including by the Maasai of Kenya and by men in Tanzania and Zanzibar, and it remains a popular souvenir for tourists visiting Kenya.

Buying Notes

  • Check that the pattern is woven: a woven kikoy shows the same stripe structure on both faces, while a printed cloth shows pattern on one face only.
  • Ask whether the cloth is hand-loomed or power-loomed. Both exist, with very different prices.
  • Fringes are traditionally hand-rolled.

Sources

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