Textiles of Africa
Heritage/Eswatini/Lihiya
Eswatini — Other

Lihiya

Emahiya (siSwati (plural)) · Sidvwashi (siSwati (lower garment))

The lihiya is worn by both men and women, in daily life and at ceremonies. At the Umhlanga, it is worn specifically by unmarried, childless young women. Among women more broadly, the way the lihiya is knotted indicates marital status: a knot on the r…

Origin
The lihiya (plural: emahiya) is a draped, toga-style garment worn by the Swazi people of Eswatini, made from printed rather than locally-woven cloth. Its precise historical origin is not documented in available sources; its closest documented cultural anchor is the annual Umhlanga (Reed Dance) ceremony at Ludzidzini, honouring the Queen Mother and the royal family.
Primary material
printed cotton cloth
Technique family
Other
Typical process time
not applicable; manufactured printed cloth, not hand-woven
Peoples
Swazi
Preservation status
Actively practiced today
Availability
Widely available

Traditionally worn for

CeremoniesEveryday wearRites of passage

Color symbolism

  • brown— traditional colour of the sidvwashi (lower garment)
  • orange— most commonly used colour for weddings

Origins & history

The lihiya (plural emahiya) is a draped, toga-style garment worn by the Swazi people of Eswatini. Unlike many textiles documented on this site, it is made from manufactured printed cloth rather than locally woven fabric, often shweshwe or similarly patterned prints. Its precise historical origin is not documented in available sources. Its clearest cultural anchor today is the Umhlanga (Reed Dance), an annual ceremony held at Ludzidzini in late August or early September, honouring the Queen Mother and the royal family — the emahiya is considered the most appropriate attire for the occasion.

Cultural significance

The lihiya is worn by both men and women, in daily life and at ceremonies. At the Umhlanga, it is worn specifically by unmarried, childless young women. Among women more broadly, the way the lihiya is knotted indicates marital status: a knot on the right shoulder marks an unmarried woman, while a knot on the left shoulder marks a married woman, who traditionally also wears a goatskin over the right shoulder. The lower garment, called sidvwashi, is traditionally brown, while orange is the colour most commonly chosen for weddings.

The lihiya remains widely worn today, sold through both traditional retailers and online platforms, with modernized versions increasingly available alongside classic printed styles.

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