Textiles of Africa
Heritage/Côte d'Ivoire/Korhogo Cloth
Côte d'Ivoire — Painting

Korhogo Cloth

Filafani (Senufo)

Korhogo cloth is used as clothing, as decoration for homes and shrines, as protection against vengeful spirits, and for pieces commissioned for hunters, funerals, and rites of passage. Over eighty documented motifs carry individual meanings: the guin…

Origin
Korhogo cloth is produced by the Senufo people around the city of Korhogo in northern Côte d'Ivoire. The craft as known today emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s, influenced by American Peace Corps volunteers who encouraged new production methods; an earlier form, "fila cloth" (six narrow cotton strips sewn together), gave way to full-panel cloths by the early 1980s.
Primary material
cotton
Technique family
Painting
Typical process time
not documented
Peoples
Senufo
Preservation status
Actively practiced today
Availability
Widely available
Who makes it
Women spin the cotton and prepare the mud-based pigment; men weave the base cloth and paint the motifs.

Traditionally worn for

Everyday wearRites of passageFunerals

Origins & history

Korhogo cloth — filafani in Senufo — is produced by the Senufo people around the city of Korhogo in northern Côte d'Ivoire. Its modern form took shape in the late 1960s and early 1970s, influenced in part by American Peace Corps volunteers who encouraged new production methods. An earlier prototype, "fila cloth" — six narrow strips of cotton sewn together — gave way to full cotton panels by the early 1980s.

Cultural significance

Korhogo cloth is used as clothing, as decoration for homes and shrines, as protection against vengeful spirits, and for pieces commissioned for hunters, funerals, and rites of passage. Over eighty documented motifs carry individual meanings: the guinea fowl represents feminine beauty, the hen motherhood, the goat masculine prowess, the crocodile and lizard masculine fertility, the snake and tortoise the earth, the chameleon death, the lion royal power, and the fish life and water. The palette is dominated by earthy browns, blacks, and creams from the mud-based dye.

Around 2019, 124 Korhogo cloth motifs were registered for protection by the African Intellectual Property Organization (OAPI). The craft remains popular with both Ivorian city dwellers and tourists today.

The Process

Cotton is grown, hand-spun into thread, and hand-woven into cloth. A mud-based pigment, fermented and darkening over time, is prepared and applied to the woven cloth — typically with a stencil — to create the finished motifs. Women handle the spinning and pigment preparation; men weave the base cloth and paint the designs.

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